Potato Latkes - Overcoming the Fear of Frying

By Levana Kirschenbaum


You may have guessed it: I have nothing nice to say about frying.
Years ago, while fishing for a stubborn schnitzel in the frying pan, I
burned my hand. While a scar reminds me of my aversion to frying, I
will be the first to admit that there is no Chanukah without latkes.

In my catering career and for my friends and family at home, I have
made thousands upon thousands of them and always watch them disappear
at a flatteringly alarming rate. There is no doubt about it: latkes
are a wonderful treat, and once we enter a house where their heavenly
fragrance wafts through the kitchen, even a Spartan dieter will
sheepishly watch his or her noble resolution turn to dust.

Frying (stir-frying does not fall into this category, as it requires
very little oil and minimal cooking) is the nemesis of every
health-conscious cook, me included. However, on special occasions such
as Chanukah that call for fried foods, I follow these guidelines to
efficiently and safely fry holiday treats.

Keep it dry: Too much moisture will steam food instead of frying it,
yielding soggy results. Before you begin, be sure to dry whatever you
are frying thoroughly with paper towels.

Keep it thick: Use a firm (not runny) potato batter to form thick
patties, which will absorb much less oil than thinner ones. The
outside will be crisp and the center will be tender, yet cooked
through.

Keep it hot: Less-than-hot oil will seep into your food, making it
indelibly greasy. If you add oil to the pan while frying, chances are
the oil was not hot enough to begin with. If you wait for the oil to
get hot, you will need to add very little, if any, to finish frying an
entire batch of food. How hot is hot enough? Drop a smidgen of batter
into the oil. If it sizzles and rises to the surface, the oil is hot
and ready for frying.

Keep it steady: Do not crowd the pan. First of all, you will make
handling the food more difficult. Also, crowding will bring down the
temperature of the oil. Adding what you are frying at steady intervals
ensures that the oil has time to return to the desired temperature.

Keep it lean: Rather than using spatulas or slotted spoons which sop
up unnecessary oil, work with two forks when removing items from the
pan. Lift each fried item with a fork on each side, and hold it
vertically for a second or two over the frying pan: You will be
surprised by how much oil drips off it. Immediately place the items on
a plate lined with several layers of paper towels, which will absorb
any remaining unwanted grease.

Keep it white: Peeled potatoes oxidize when exposed to air and turn an
unappealing gray color. So when making latkes (or a potato kugel), get
everything ready before your peel and grate the potatoes, adding them
immediately to the otherwise finished batter.

Keep it fresh and hot: If you are entertaining a large group, it won't
be enormous fun spending the afternoon frying while everyone is having
a good time. If you must fry in advance, follow all the above
guidelines, but fry each item until it is ninety percent cooked
through, no more. Store it in a shallow pan in one layer. You can also
place the latkes in the pan vertically, like a deck of cards; you will
be able to fit quite a few in a pan in this position (again, one
layer). Cover tightly. Refrigerate or freeze, depending on how long in
advance you are preparing the dish. Reheat uncovered, at about 350*F,
for fifteen to twenty minutes, or until heated through.

Levana's Perfect Potato Latkes

(yields 24 latkes)

Ingedients:
vegetable oil for frying
1 cup flour
4 eggs
1 medium onion, grated in a food processor
salt and pepper to taste
pinch nutmeg
8 large Idaho or russet potatoes, peeled



Heat 1/3 inch oil in a heavy frying pan until very hot. While the oil
is heating, place the flour, eggs, onion, salt and pepper, and nutmeg
in a bowl, and mix thoroughly. Quickly grate the potatoes in a food
processor, using the thin grating blade for soft latkes or the thick
grater blade for crunchier latkes. Immediately add them to the batter,
mixing with a spoon and without pressing on the solids in order not to
draw unwanted moisture. Work very quickly so they do not have time to
get discolored. Form small patties with both hands without ever
squeezing, and lower them into the hot oil (at this point reduce the
flame just slightly: leave it on high but not the highest), or drop
the batter by heaping tablespoons. Fry until golden, about 3 minutes
on each side. Remove and drain on paper towels. Serve with applesauce,
yogurt or sour cream.

Variations:

Vegetable latkes: Replace the potatoes with a mixture of zucchini,
carrots and parsnips. Add seasonings of your choice such as oregano,
garlic and basil.

Sweet potato latkes: Substitute sweet potatoes for the regular
potatoes, and add brown sugar, cinnamon and ginger to taste.

Potato Kugel: Add 1/3 cup of vegetable oil to the potato latke batter.
Pour the batter into a greased loaf or square pan, and bake uncovered
in a preheated 375 degree F oven for one hour or until the top is
golden brown.


By Levana Kirschenbaum


Levana Kirschebaum is a world-reknown gourmet chef, co-owner of Levana
Resteraunt in NYC, and is the author of the cookbook, Levana's Table.
She is currently working on her next publication, a non-dairy gourmet
cookbook. Levana gives weekly classes at Lincoln Square Synagogue and
holds demos around the country. Her website is www.levanacooks.com.

Traditional Doughnuts


Doughnuts, an old-fashioned treat, are never quite as good when
store-bought. Try them homemade!

Ingredients:

1 ¾ ounces fresh yeast
1 ½ cups warm water
1 Tbsp. sugar
3 eggs
½ cup oil
½ cup sugar
½ cup non dairy creamer
1 tsp. Vanilla extract
1 tsp. Grated lemon peel
6 to 7 cups of flour
Also:
Oil for frying
Confectioners' sugar

Use: 2-quart pot
Yields: 5 to 6 dozen doughnuts

In a large mixer bowl: place eggs, oil, sugar, nondairy creamer,
vanilla, and grated lemon peel. Add yeast mixture; add flour until
soft dough is formed. (Dough need not be dry; it should be softer than
challah dough.) Knead for a few minutes. Cover and allow to rise until
doubled in bulk, about 1 to 1-½ hours.

Roll out dough ½-inch thick on floured surface. Cut out circles with a
doughnut cutter.

Place 2 or 3 inches oil in a 2-quart saucepan and heat over a medium
flame until hot. Place four doughnuts at a time in the oil. Brown on
one side and then on the other. Remove with slotted spoon. Drain and
cool on paper towels. Dust with confectioners' sugar.

Note: To test if dough is ready for rolling, place a small piece in a
glass of water-if the dough floats to the top, it is ready.




Excerpted from Spice and Spirit, The Complete Kosher Jewish Cookbook,
published by Lubavitch Women's Cookbook Publications


Chanukah Latkes


Ingredients:

5 large potatoes, peeled
1 large onion
3 eggs
1/3 cup flour
1 tsp. Salt
¼ tsp. pepper
¾ cup oil for frying

Use: 10-inch skillet
Yields: 4 to 6 servings

Grate potatoes and onion on the fine side of a grater, or in a food
processor; or put in a blender with a little water.

Strain grated potatoes and onion through a colander, pressing out
excess water. Add eggs, flour, and seasoning. Mix well.
Heat ½ cup oil in skillet. Lower flame and place 1 large tablespoon
batter at a time into hot sizzling oil and fry on one side for
approximately 5 minutes until golden brown. Turn over and fry on other
side 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove from pan and place on paper towels to drain excess oil.
Continue with remaining batter until used up, adding more oil when
necessary.

Serve with applesauce on the side.

Variation: Zucchini or Carrot Latkes: Substitute 5 medium zucchini or
5 medium carrots for potatoes.







Excerpted from Spice and Spirit, The Complete Kosher Jewish Cookbook,
published by Lubavitch Women's Cookbook Publications